Most visitors to Orlando spend the majority of their days and nights at one or both of the two major theme parks in town, Walt Disney World and Universal Orlando. Such an itinerary makes a lot of sense--there's so much to do at these places that one could spend a week on their grounds and barely scratch the surface. Still, the explosive growth in recent years of this vacation destination has not been limited to the parks' terrifying new roller coasters or on-site entertainment. Orlando wants to remind visitors of its less-visited sites, from parks and gardens to museums to roadside attractions dating back to the days when orange groves and small motels took up most of the land. Not only are there interesting and quirky things to see, but it's a great way to get away from the crowds and long lines, if even temporarily.
DOUBLE PARK-ING
A good place to begin a tour of Orlando's "other side" is on the tranquil grounds of Harry P. Leu Gardens just north of downtown. Sprawling over nearly 50 verdant acres by the shores of Lake Rowena, the Gardens are on the former estate of Orlando native Leu. A successful businessman and gardening enthusiast, he traveled the world collecting exotic plants; in 1961 he donated his home and the surrounding land to the city.
Strolling the Gardens is a relaxing and altogether unique experience. Visitors can explore all corners of this landscape by traversing the miles of scenic walkways. Highlights include a tropical conservatory, the largest documented camellia collection in Eastern North America, and the largest formal Rose Garden in the South. The centerpiece of the grounds is Harry Leu's painstakingly restored turn-of-the-century farmhouse, now the Leu House Museum (and on the National Register of Historic Places). For those who are especially motivated, there are even plant-related classes and workshops.
Another serene spot is Lake Eola Park in the heart of downtown. With the city skyline serving as backdrop, Lake Eola offers visitors a chance to relax either on or along the water. There are paved paths for walking and jogging; fields for picnics and playing; an amphitheater that hosts weekend concerts and a monthly comedy show; and swan-shaped pedal boats, the perfect place from which to admire the signature fountain that sits in the middle of the lake.
MEMORABLE MUSEUMS
Orlando has a number of interesting, educational, and entertaining museums, all of which are within a short drive of one another. It's easy to cover a few of them in a morning, or all of them in a full day. Start with the acclaimed Orlando Science Center, a hands-on, 200,000 square-foot facility devoted to presenting the mysteries of science in a way that's both high-tech and highly engaging. Ten themed display halls cover everything from the Universe to the human body; there's also a giant CineDome screen, the world's largest domed theater and planetarium.
Nearby are the Orange County Historical Museum and Orlando Museum of Art. Although slightly less gee-whiz in presentation than their brethren over at the Science Center, both these museums offer the chance for youngsters to do more than just stare at paintings. The Historical Museum, which focuses on exhibits about Central Florida's past--everything from Native American culture to citrus-growing--also includes an annex museum containing Orlando's early fire-fighting equipment. Kids are welcome to try on firemen's hats and jackets. At the Museum of Art, which dates back to 1924, there's a special program called Art Encounter that helps children understand artwork through an interactive approach, whether it's piecing together an ancient pot, playing an instrument, or weaving a loom. Meanwhile, adults can explore the museum's permanent collection of American, pre-Colombian, and African art, or check out a prestigious traveling exhibit.
Finally, just up Interstate 4, in the historical community of Eatonville, sits the Zora Neale Hurston National Museum of Fine Arts. A small, modest-looking gallery, it's named after the famous Harlem Renaissance writer, folklorist, and anthropologist who called this town her home. Established in 1990 to provide a cultural outlet for the community, as well as spur the town's economic development, "The Hurston" showcases the work of both emerging and well-renowned black artists. It mounts five special exhibits annually, including one devoted solely to promising new artists. Most importantly, this museum serves as an excellent starting point for a visit to Eatonville, the country's oldest African-American municipality.
GREAT GATORS
Parks are pleasant, museums are educational, but to truly experience Orlando at its most unusual (and yet most traditional), a visit to Gatorland is in order. This campy-yet-earnest roadside attraction opened in 1949 and is still going strong today, despite having to compete against the whiz-bang pyrotechnics of the major theme parks. Visitors can walk through the brightly colored, open-jaw entrance and into a world of over 5,000 alligators and crocodiles, not to mention lots of rattlesnakes and other motley creatures. Kids and adults alike will delight as the large reptiles leap out of the water for their food, engage in wrestling matches with well-trained Gatorland personnel, and do their thing--especially around dusk during mating season--in the breeding marsh. There are also nurseries, rearing ponds, a bird rookery, and a baby-animal petting zoo, plus three educational shows per day thrown in for good measure. It's a good way to see Florida's wildlife up close and personal--and a reminder of how much things have changed since this was the biggest show in town. •
